Join us for a nine-day cruise on the Norwegian Cruise Lines' ship NCL Pearl, starting at Trieste and ending at Athens, sailing down the Adriatic Sea. After five years of not cruising because of Covid and cancer we at last manage to catch up with entertainer friends Tomas and Maris!
Each day is shown on its own separate entry, reached by clicking/tapping the seven photos below. A link on each page will bring you back here.
Saturday 24 August 2024. The ship is moored against the dockside in Gruz as we leap (slither slowly) out of bed. This is the port for Dubrovnik and almost every time we have been there so far, we have wandered down along the port to the far end of the basin rather than go into Dubrovnik itself.
There's a lot to be said for it. You get a nice peaceful walk down a long street lined with cafes, bars and grocery outlets on one side and ships, boats, yachts both large and small and a sailing ship on the other. In Dubrovnik itself you get a chaotic square-cum-bus station where buses, coaches and pedestrians all compete for the same bit of road and crowds of Game of Thrones fans all craning their necks to spot a recogniseable bit of King's Landing from the show.
Now I'm as enthusiastic about the show as the next person - actually considerably more so, as Miss Franny was the next person and she hated it... What I'm not enthusiastic about are massive crowds and people who seem to treat anyone walking with a stick as an opportunity to see how close they can get, dodging from one side to the other across your path after approaching silently from behind. So we walked down the length of the port again and very nice too. Buying drinks on the way back I learned my first word in Croatian - "vala" means "thank you" The conversation went like this:
"How do you say thank you in Croatian?" "Vala!" said with a smile of appreciation that I should take the trouble to learn. "Vala?" I said, trying it out. She nodded. "Oh thank you! Er... I mean vala!" I stuttered. Old habits die hard and all that...
We had a few other cruise ships travelling along pretty much the same route during the week. Sometimes there were four of us, sometimes three, occasionally five. A regular was Cunard's Queen Victoria. Actually owned by Carnival Corporation, she is operated by Cunard and was built 2006-2007 with delivery to Cunard in December 2007, when on the same day it was named by Camilla, then Duchess of Cornwall. The champagne bottle did not break on hitting the side of the ship, a bad omen traditionally, but a second bottle duly smashed immediately. None-the-less much was made of the incident later that month when over 130 people contracted the winter vomiting disease norovirus aboard her. Moral of the tale is to never try to lick old champagne off the side of a ship...
Then the Franjo Tuđman bridge takes the road to and from Split over the River Dubrovnik. The brave - or foolhardy - can bungee jump from it... I was going to have a go - but the Norwegian Pearl was already sailing away. I settled for a jump down into the shower tray instead... It was perhaps just a little safer, there being a handle on the wall to hold onto. But - and readers might like to draw an admiring inward breath at this point - I did it without the aid of any harness or elastic band!
The Rose Garden Restaurant was a buffet style dining area and our usual go-to place to eat. The food was mostly ok, but Norwegian Cruise Lines, depite the name, are an American-based company and the food reflected North and South American tastes primarily. We did expect this and the majority of passengers were indeed from the countries of those continents. Some items were very sweet to our taste. Surprisingly, steaks which Americans are famous for were sometimes so fatty that we just left most of them on the plate. I've never experienced that in America.
Our main reason for choosing this cruise was the chance to see these two wonderful people again. Tomas and Maris, singing as "2 Intense". It was a joy for us to see them again and we had a meal together one night with a chance to sit and talk and catch up on all the things happening at home and with families etc. "He's itching to get up here!" grinned Tomas one night. Yes I was but I'm still not in any fit enough state to try it yet! Hopefully someday.
Friday 23 August 2024. The approach to the port is up the most southerly fjord in Europe and we were already moored by the time we got out on deck. The scenery is outstanding though.
From where we are moored we can see Kotor's magnificent medieval walls climbing up the mountainside, but not the town itself. The ship's tenders are pressed into service to take us into the city and we collect our tickets after breakfast and wait for our group number to be called. There's still a bit of waiting on the staircases to be done but I manage both that and the transfer to the bobbing up and down of the tender boat without mishap.
The city itself is jam packed with people and is more of an ordeal that a pleasure. We walked through as best we could, coming out at the southern gate for a breather and to catch any available shade in the heat of the day. There was precious little. Most benches were out in the glare of the sun and I sat having swivelled my cap to protect the back of my neck from burning as best as I could, looking for all the world like a little old man desperately trying to appear hip. Or whatever the term is these days... Other old men were passing, hunched over their beer bellies and drawling "Hey man! How's it dribblin'?" ... "Far too frequently..." seemed to be the correct response.
Kotor is a medieval city with walls surrounding it, leading high up into the mountains above on each side of the city before meeting at a point making an almost impregnable barrier to any invader from land. We made our way back through the crowds - far more people than previous visits - I checked and they were in mid-October... Coming out near the pier where the tender boats were waiting I decided a drink wouldn't wait and we found seats in a small courtyard and ordered a Coca-Cola and a Sprite. I do miss the days when I could order a glass or two of wine, but long drinks took the edge off our thirst.
We made our way back to the ship and Deck 12 to our customary table and the sketchpad came out again. We couldn't see the city, but the very edge of the city walls can be seen on the right-hand edge of the drawing. This is probably my favourite sketch of the week. The mix of scrub and vegetation against the bare rocks of the cliff face gave me a challenge and the red roofs and line of boats give added interest at the bottom. I had a few more onlookers from behind apparently - unless they speak I don't see them, but Miss Franny told me after that there had been a steady stream of people.
That night as we got into one of the lifts someone suddenly said "Are you the gentleman that does those beautiful paintings from the side of the ship?" and I had to pause just in case there was someone else who did better ones...
Join us for a week's cruise on the Marella Celebration, starting and ending at Dubrovnik. We'll be sailing up the Adriatic Sea to take in six ports in Montenegro, Croatia and Italy.
Each day is shown on its own separate entry, reached by clicking/tapping the seven photos below. A link on each page will bring you back here.
Sunday 23 September 2018. Marella Celebration docks in Zadar in Croatia. Another of several places we have not been to before this cruise.
Zadar has a traffic-free medieval and Roman centre and a shuttle bus takes us from the ship to the seafront so that we can explore on our own. There is a sea organ here with the pipes leading to holes in the paving along a 70 metre stretch of the coast. Wave action blows air through them so that random notes sound as you walk along.
We ignore this path that leads into the town in favour of walking the full length of the seafront which our map told us would lead to one of the old city gates.
The latter part of our route took us alongside the medieval city walls and a couple of times we thought we were heading for a dead end only for the path to reveal itself almost at the last minute.
You can see what I mean here. The gate itself is now in sight, but how to reach it?
Not until we reach it is the path revealed, narrow, but passable.
The gate bears the almost inevitable Venetian winged lion symbol. To the right of the photo atop the wall are five wells, but we missed them this time.
Instead we passed through the gate immediately looking right to the walls of the Svarog Bar and the Captain's Tower.
Narodni Trg or Peoples' Square. The building is the home of the Town Guard. It's ok, I wasn't causing trouble...
We turned right 90 degrees at the Square and, passing through a gate, came to a waterway with a pedestrian bridge to the opposite side. It turns out that the old town of Zadar is built on a peninsula or promontory, so the water on both sides of it is the Adriatic Sea. Over the bridge was the modern part of Zadar. In this view we are facing back towards the old town and the two figures on the banner over the gate are Zadar's medal winning rowing team from the 2016 Olympics.
Looking towards modern Zadar over the inlet of the Adriatic Sea.
We returned to the Peoples' Square and once again turned right 90 degrees thereby continuing in our original direction through the town. We were now walking along a well-to-do shopping street. At the far end, the bell tower is that of St Anastasia's Cathedral, which dates from the 1100s and contains the saint's relics.
Next to it, once we reached it, is the unusual circular Byzantine church on the left; St Donatus, dating from the early 800s CE. It is one of a very few Croatian churches to survive the Mongol invasion of the 13th century.
So a Mongol invasion, the Ottomans and Venice. Before them all were the Romans and these two churches stand over the site of the Roman Forum.
Some original Roman stonework is contained inside the churches and in the pavements and gardens to the west.
Making a selfie was a tough proposition in the Roman days...
We sit admiring the Roman remains and gardens then walk back to the pick-up point for the shuttle bus back to the ship. The bus leaves as soon as we have sat down.
Songs tonight include Halfway To Paradise by Billy Fury and I Saw Her Standing There by The Beatles.
