Showing posts with label gondola. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gondola. Show all posts

Tuesday, 28 November 2023

Excursion to Venice

Friday 2 July 2003. An exciting day! We have our usual early morning stroll around Riva and then wait for the Leger coach to pick us up and away we go to spend a day in Venice.

It is a journey of two parts. Here we had just got off a water bus along the shoreline of the Venetian Lagoon. In the afternoon we would be having a swift sail on the lagoon.

However the coach has had to drop us off at the far end of the lagoon because Venice is made up of a group of islands and your standard Leger coach doesn't travel over water so well. We were dropped off here in an industrial bit, with a train of tankers chugging slowly down the side of the road. On the edge of the lake a water bus picked us up to take us onwards to Venice's main island which include's St Marks Square and basilica, the Doges Palace, the Bridge of Sighs and the Rialto Bridge.

Some of the gang waiting for the water bus to pick us up. Kell, Denise, Andy, Margaret and Miss Franny.

We walked as a large group from the water bus to St Marks Square. Our excursion included a gondola ride and so it was as well to do it first thing whilst we were all together as a group before we all split up to explore Venice independently.

In 2003 to hire a gondola was roughly seventy two pounds and they can sit up to six people. So we were to make sure we filled all the seats or we would have been charged more.

With the two of us were Kell and Denise, the chap with the crew-cut hairstyle was Terry and taking the photo was another chap who I think may have been called Jack... It's a while ago...

The Gondolier has a single long oar or paddle and stands on a board platform at the rear of the gondola on a piece of carpet to protect the board. The gondolas are expensive bits of kit and contained something like 22 different kinds of wood and several different kinds of metal. They cost something approaching the same as a top of the range car. Currrently around 40,000 Euros in 2023. We'll see the Bridge of Sighs again in a bit.

Every bridge over the canals was jammed with people watching the gondolas. Not much chance of a crafty cuddle with your partner of choice unless you are a bit of an exhibitionist... Oh wait... that's me...!

The ride on the gondola took half an hour and then we all split up once back at St Marks Square to do our own thing before meeting once again at the boat station further down the lagoon shore for our trip on the lagoon that would finish back at the coach.

We dived into the streets as the crowds in the square were such that we had no chance of waiting to go into the basilica. We found a small pizzeria. By now my Italian was improved enough to order food without having to hope the waiters spoke English! Not that Pizza Margherita is all that different in Italian but...

Venice is a great place for window shopping and art and crafts shops are everywhere. From the famous Murano glassware to carnival masks, paintings to calligraphy pens, you can't go wrong. It is not however a cheap place to pick up your souvenirs. If a bit of pottery or glassware has no price on it then it's safest to assume your pockets are not deep enough!

And occasionally a street comes to a bridge and the only thing over the bridge is the entrance to a shop!

It was getting time to start thinking about going back towards our meeting place. We hadn't looked around St Marks Square and that was a must before we had to go to meet the rest of the party. Miss Franny didn't want to look at the shops in the arcades that extend around three sides of the square, but I insisted...

She found a tea set she liked. It had no price but those glasses on the left were 80 euros each. I stifled a nervous laugh and said Oh look over there!" and neatly steered her away. "I didn't want them..." she said in an annoyed tone, whilst looking wistfully back over her shoulder...

Looking from the far end of St Marks Square back at the basilica and the free-standing bell tower or campanile. This latter stands 98.6 metres tall (323.5 feet) and is a brick tower topped with a pyramid shaped copper-covered spire atop of which is a spinning representation of the Archangel Gabriel in flight which acts as a weathervane. It stands on Roman foundations, and dates from the 12th century CE. Much work was done to it until it was rebuilt entirely in the 16th century.

After centuries of both lightning and earthquakes it collapsed in 1902. Luckily it fell away from the basilica. It was rebuilt to look exactly the same as before, though the interior was subject to more rigorous safety standards. It was opened once more in 1912.

The Doges Palace sits on the corner of the square and the lagoon. Instantly recogniseable with its pink diamond decoration. The Doges were the leaders of Venice. Before the unification of Italy Venice was a nation in its own right and an extensive one, having made its mark bringing many of the territories in the Adriatic and Mediterranean under its rule. You will still find the winged lion of Venice in many cities in the Eastern Mediterranean today from Croatia to Cyprus. The Doge was the highest authority. The word in Latin would be Dux meaning leader, the same root as the English Duke.

On the right hand side of the palace is the Bridge of Sighs. Built from 1600 CE, it was a route from the courts of the Doges Palace to the prison. The name comes from the legend that prisoners would take their last look at the outside world from its shuttered windows and sigh... Another legend is that if you kiss your sweetheart whilst passing under it in a gondola at sunset you will be granted eternal love. I'm not sure if that is meant to be with the person you just kissed or not...

For a giggle, I looked up the latest reviews of the Bridge of Sighs. These were the top three: "It's a well-known location and many people take photographs there" and "Enjoyed every bit of the sights" and my favourite: "I ordered lobster and filet steak"... Wow, you guys should really take up writing tour guides...

The annual Venice Carnival is a riot of fantastic costumes and masks and takes place late January to mid February (it ends on Shrove Tuesday). It ran for centuries untl 1797 when it was banned by the Holy Roman Emperor, Francis II. It was started again in 1979.

A row of stalls between St Mark's Square and the water buses on the lagoon, offer a variety of souvenirs. We had ample time to stroll back along them on our way to the meeting place and around us we recognised some of our fellow travellers doing the same. Our guide (it was Lucille once again from Bolzano and Renon) took over the microphone on the boat and gave a really good commentary.

The temperature was well over 40 degrees centigrade. It was warm out there! After a quick tour of the lagoon the charter took us back to the industrial estate where we had left the coach. One chap got seperated from his family and we had to wait whilst he found us...

In the next article, mountains, cable cars, and an old friend from Amsterdam!

Lake Garda and Northern Italy, 2003 Index

Friday, 17 November 2023

The Gondolas of Venice

We've nipped in and out of Venice a few times either whilst staying at nearby Lake Garda, or on cruises up the Adriatic Sea.

So as part of the series featuring ships, boats and any other watercraft (not enough photos of rafts yet - sorry!) this article will take a pictorial look at Venice's unique form of transport: the gondola.

They can be found at boarding stations around the main island, but the most famous one is probably this one that sits facing the lagoon just close to St Marks Square.

I'm not sure of the current cost, but the cost is normally for the gondola and gondolier, rather than per passenger. They seat six people, so going as a group works out cheaper, though less romantically perhaps, than for a couple.

From here you can take a number of routes. Although they are a slender and somewhat fragile-looking craft, they do venture out into the lagoon.

But first we'll head up the side of the Doge's Palace and sail under the famous Bridge of Sighs.

This is looking over the stern of the gondola. The gondolier stands on a platform, usually with a bit of carpet to protect the craft. There are lots of different types of wood involved in the making of a gondola and they cost a significant amount of money. This was during our first trip to Venice and our fellow travellers, Kell and his wife Denise, were from New Zealand.

Alternatively, from this same station you can head out into the swell of the Venetian lagoon.

I suspect this is reserved for relatively calm days. I'm not sure I'd like to be tossed about in one of these things, with some quite large boats, water buses, and (at that time) cruise ships whizzing up and down, creating ridges of waves from their bows.

And so, whilst this looks impressive, in reality we have turned to head for the Bridge of Sighs and what you see in the background is one of the other islands opposite St Marks Square!

And so into the canals of Venice. Narrow, crowded sometimes, with some low bridges most of which are themselves crowded with people watching your every move...

Every now and then you come across a pile of gondolas, heading to their designated boarding points to drop off one set of passengers and take on another.

Not all gondoliers can speak English - I say this only because we met up with some fellow travellers who were most indignant that their gondolier could not speak with them. Needless to say these same passengers were not feeling in the slightest bit guilty because they couldn't speak Italian...

Most gondolas have quite a bit of artwork from wooden raised fretwork on the boat's panels to miniature paintings like this one.

It follows that gondoliers are quite proud and protective of their craft. We were on this one during our second visit and a young girl put her feet up on the exquisitely embroidered seat cushion, bringing a sharp rebuke from the gondolier. I couldn't blame him - well maybe for the glare he gave me because he thought I was her father, but she was travelling with her mother alone...

A gondola about to disappear under one of the many bridges. Some of these are a bit strange - you expect a bridge to lead from a street on one side of a canal to a continuation of the street on the other side, but some just go into the entrance of a shop and you have to turn back!

As you can tell from this one, space on the canals is at a premium and not all canal users are in a craft as narrow as a gondola!

Traffic jams can be common and it is amazing how easily the gondoliers steer their long craft around and between each other with just a single long oar.

The other tool in their trade is to scoot against the wall of the canal with a spare foot. By which I mean the one they are not resting their weight on... they don't literally have a spare foot.

Whilst on the canals there are some lovely little architectural features to look out for. Iron grill work on windows, doorways and private moorings, bridges and all sorts of things.

"Duck!!!" How they manage to avoid banging their heads day in and day out is a mystery. Don't look backwards when approaching a bridge is a good maxim!

Whoops! Traffic jam! You do get them. It's not only gondolas or motor boats using the canals, all manner of goods have to be delivered this way as well so there are the occasional large barges and sometimes it can take several minutes to get around the next corner.

Coming around one corner, the canal joins a wider thoroughfare and we have reached the Grand Canal.

Ahead we can see the Rialto Bridge. This is the second most popular tourist spot after St Marks Square and the narrow streets between the two are furnished with plenty of direction signs pointing one way to Rialto and the other to San Marco.

There is another large gondola station here where you can pick up a ride in the shadow of the bridge.

In between trips the gondoliers can chat to friends and grab a coffee from one of the many cafes along the stretch of the canal.

The view from the Rialto Bridge looking further up the Grand Canal.

Ships and Boats Index

Saturday, 8 July 2023

Ships and Boats Index

Welcome to this transport series of articles on ships, boats and all things that float. Although ships and boats mainly cover it as I've never been on a seaplane, flying boat or a hovercraft... In general these are pages dealing exclusively with the ships themselves. Links on some of the cruise ship articles will lead you to the relevant cruise index which may have some isolated shots of the ship's interior or exterior on further pages.

Clicking or tapping the photos below will take you to each of the articles. A link on each page will bring you back here.