We Take a (Day in) Bath

Tuesday 28 May 1998. The staircase from the Roman Baths led Fran and I to the rooms above; the famous Pump Room of Georgian times where the likes of Beau Nash would gather to drink the mineral water from the same spring where the Romans had worshipped their goddess Minerva so long ago.

The room was a highly fashionable place to be and to be seen. Today it still retains its genteel character. It is possible to sit and take one's tea to the gentle sounds of chamber music being played live from one end of the room.

A glass of mineral water can be tasted for a modest fee and is served by elegant footmen dressed in the costume of the Georgian period. The water is high in various minerals and quite strong tasting.

I'm afraid I didn't find it to my taste, but reflected that no doubt it was doing me a world of good. One should drink the waters of Bath with a self-righteous air of superiority, as though it is an every day occurrence. The woman next to me says, in an indignant American accent: "Well! I don't know how they drink this stuff!" With a carefully schooled face, masking my own doubts, I drain my glass and smile... We left soon afterwards as I don't suppose up-chucking all over the place is encouraged. The water is vile. My opinion only of course. But vile...

Ah yes... and mindful of a few comments received recently from friends both here in the UK and across the Atlantic I thought I'd better show you Hands Dairy Cream Tea Rooms where you can order (and we did, we did!) clotted cream teas. Ah... just the thing! I've no idea why such a wonderfully tasting repast can cause such outpourings of shock and revulsion folks, but then again, if spreading clotted cream on scones was described as "spreading clabber on biscuits" as the Americans have it, then perhaps I'd think twice also. But what excuse Cathy has, Northamptonshire lass as she is, I just don't know... Get it down you, it'll do you good!

Once while I was down in Somerset running a workshop I bought 4 tubs of clotted cream and to keep them fresh, as it was a hot summer's day when I drove back north, I had to keep the aircon on in the car and I was freezing all the way back, but having phoned ahead, Fran got set to making some fresh scones for when I got home!

One of the must-see sights in Bath is this. Pulteney Bridge was completed in 1773 and designed by Robert Adam who was inspired by Ponte Vecchio of Florence and the Rialto Bridge in Venice. Rows of shops line the parapets of the bridge which is an elegant 3-arched bridge over the River Avon.

Sailing under it is a tricky if not dangerous undertaking because of the 3-stepped wier, but that feature gives this view another element of the unusual and pleasing.

Looking along Pulteney Bridge from road level. The shops are small. Perhaps sensibly Adam was not tempted to have them overhang the actual edge of the bridge as is the case in Florence. I was looking for a reference to our visit to Florence, but it was in 2006 and I have yet to blog about that particular holiday - a joy (whatever!) to come, then!

We had on a previous visit walked up to look at the great Georgian circus of town houses but I've never seen a better view of it than on this bought postcard image taken by a particularly tall photographer.

So that was Bath. The other place we were hoping to visit that day was Bristol. We have the afternoon left to get there. Next time!

Return to Wiltshire, Cotswolds and Avon 1998 Index

The Roman Remains at Bath

Tuesday 28 May 1998. Fran and I had spent the third night of our holiday in the seaside town of Weston Super Mare, in the Corbiere Hotel, named after a famous race horse. Weston is a wonderful centre for touring the Avon area, with Bath, Bristol, Cheddar Gorge and caves and numerous other places within easy reach. We were aiming to visit Bath and Bristol before moving northwards into the Cotswolds for the last half of our holiday.

After breakfast we made for the city of Bath and headed first of all to the remains of the Roman bath complex where folk would flock to take the waters a mere 1800 years or so ago. The Great Bath. Fed by the warm spring of the spa, this was the great communal pool. The baths complex had several pools, warm, tepid, cool etc. and sauna areas heated by a furnace and hypercaust system.

There are a couple of mosaics on display. This one shows some fanciful "sea" creatures disporting themselves and is displayed in a raised casing.

Walkways have been built above the original Roman paving to ensure that there is no further wearing of the stone from visitors' feet. The ground level of the Roman days is several feet below today's pavement level.

The goddess Minerva was worshipped at the sacred springs that disgorge hundreds of gallons of hot water every day. This bronze head of the goddess is displayed in a case in a prominant position. I waited patiently for quite a while but at no time was I able to get a photograph without someone standing right behind it. In the end I just cropped this close and cut him out...

This is the outlet from the spring. It is England's most impressive volcanic activity. There's a steady production of hot water that just keeps coming. The Romans attributed it to the benevolence of Minerva and piped it off to heat the waters of the Great Bath.

This is the cold plunge pool. I wouldn't have fancied it myself... There is lots more to see at the Baths complex and it's a really interesting place to visit. Once we leave ancient Rome, we move forward into Georgian England (and you have to wait for the next entry) for a look at the Pump Room and maybe a taste of the spring water.

Return to Wiltshire, Cotswolds and Avon 1998 Index

1990 Travels

The other day I gave you a brief glimpse of West Kennet Long Barrow from a trip we took over the Spring Bank Holiday in 1990.

Over that long weekend we called to see the Roman baths at the city of Bath in Somerset. We've been there several times over the years but the Great Bath, with the green tint to the water, caused by minerals in the hot springs that feed the bath is always a spectacular sight.

Also on display is the actual spring. I've forgotten just how many gallons gush out of the ground per day but it's a lot and it comes at a constant 40+ degrees of heat.

The Romans called Bath "Aquae Sulis" and it was much later that the British called it Bath after the Baths. Having done something similar at the spot where the Romans left all their rubbish we would have had a major city called Dump...

We also called at Glastonbury, calling to see the well where one legend has it the Holy Grail, used at the Last Supper by Jesus rested for a while as Joseph of Arimathea brought it to this country. There is even a legend that the boy carpenter Jesus was brought here by that merchant - the legend being the inspiration for that most moving hymn, Jerusalem.

"And did those feet in ancient time
Walk upon England's mountains green
And was the holy lamb of God
On England's pleasant pastures seen"

Glastonbury is known mostly for the music festival these days, but also here is an ancient abbey with a grave that is claimed as being that of King Arthur. The fact that it was discovered and caused a mass inrush of pilgrims bearing monetary gifts just after the 12th Century monks had managed to burn down the abbey and needed a swift restoration fund does however mean you have to be a little cynical of their good fortune...

The abbey has some fairly ancient graffiti to show too - this example dating from 1719!

All the photos from this holiday are available as a set at Flickr.